KIT-14
Kitchen internal storage configuration
Kitchen- Best for
- Tall and base cabinets holding tall or irregular items, where flexibility over the years matters more than reach.
- Watch out
- In a deep base cabinet, shelves swallow what is at the back. Shelf pins are the weak point, and a loaded shelf sags over a wide span.
- Relative cost
- The least expensive — the reference point.
- Consequential work
- None significant; shelves can be moved or added later without touching the carcass.
- Best for
- Deep base cabinets — the back becomes as reachable as the front, so pots and stacks stop hiding.
- Watch out
- The runners take width and depth from the carcass, and they are the wear part; a tray behind a door needs the door open first, so a drawer front is usually the better pairing.
- Relative cost
- Higher — a pair of runners and a tray per pull-out.
- Consequential work
- Runner load rating and tray depth are fixed at carcass stage, because the carcass is drilled for them.
- Best for
- A second tier behind one front — cutlery, spices and utensils in fixed lanes without adding a door or drawer face to the elevation.
- Watch out
- Two actions to reach the inner drawer, and the internal height is split, so tall items no longer fit in that cabinet.
- Relative cost
- Higher — a drawer box and its runners for each inner drawer.
- Consequential work
- Internal heights are planned against what goes where, and fixed before fabrication.
- Best for
- Trays, chopping boards and baking sheets stored on edge — visible and reachable in a narrow cabinet.
- Watch out
- Only for flat items; a divided cabinet is single-purpose and cannot easily be given another job later.
- Relative cost
- Low — dividers are simple joinery.
- Consequential work
- Decide which cabinet takes them before fabrication; the slot spacing is fixed.
Supply and installation confirmed with your specification.
Plan with ELS